Care of Trees & Shrubs


Newly planted trees must be watered immediately after planting and then once or twice a week during hot weather. Mountain Ash and Pine trees are an exception and do not like a lot of water. Water Mountain Ash and Pine once when first planted and again just before freeze-up until the root systems are well established (usually 3 years). Please review ‘Watering Guideline’ chart for water quantities.

Do not rely solely on lawn sprinklers for watering trees as they rarely give enough water to penetrate to the deep roots. Deep watering with a root feeder is very effective. Heavy clay soils require less watering, while sandy soils require extra water.

The root system of Birch trees should be kept moist at all times, this will greatly reduce the chances of your Birch becoming infected with Birch Leaf Minor.

Water all trees well in the fall before freeze-up, especially evergreens, to prevent winter browning.

Note: Avoid over watering. Continual over-watering will cause your tree to drown and die.


Watering Guideline

Size of Shrub/Tree Imperial Gallon Metric Litre Watering Interval
First Week Second Week
#1 Container (small shrub/perennial) 1-3 4-12 3 3
#2 Container (medium shrub) 1-3 4-12 3 3
#5 Container (large shrub) 3-5 12-19 3 3
#10 Container (potted tree/ XL shrub) 5-7 19-26 3 2
#15 Container (potted tree) 7-10 26-38 3 2
40mm-50mm (diameter of tree trunk) 10-20 10-20 2 1
60mm-70mm (diameter of tree trunk) 15-25 57-95 2 1
80mm+ (diameter of tree trunk) 20-30 76-114 2 1



In the first year, we recommend a 10-52-10 fertilizer designed to promote quick rooting. In subsequent years, use a formulation specific for evergreen trees and one for deciduous trees. Check with your local garden centre for the most suitable fertilizer and follow the manufactures directions.


Sun scalding causes a splitting and peeling of the lower bark on the south to southwest side of certain trees. This condition can shorten the life of the tree. It may look like a disease, but is not. To prevent this condition, wrap the trunk of the tree with a “Tree Wrap”, available at your local garden centre. Planting shrubs at the base of the tree will also help to protect it from exposure. Trees prone to this problem include: fruit trees (especially Apple), Amur Cherry, Lindens, Manchurian Ash, and Mountain Ash.


Your newly planted tree will be staked with either 6’ wooden stakes and wire or 2’ stakes with nylon rope ties. Staking stabilizes the tree and allows it to establish a good root system. We recommend leaving the stakes on the trees for one full growing season.

If you are uncertain or have questions regarding the care of your trees, please check with your local garden centre.



Wood mulch creates a natural weed control barrier as it meshes together over time. The finer the wood is, the tighter the natural weave. It is common to top up mulch every 2-3 years, as it compacts and decomposes over time, creating a thicker barrier, aiding with weed control. Be cautious not to keep mulch too close to the base of any plant material. Trees with thick mulch or soil at base can become a breeding ground for disease and rot, as a result of the water retention directly around the trunk.

WEED BARRIER FABRIC (Landscape Cloth/Fabric)

Weed barrier fabric is just that, a barrier. It is designed to allow water to penetrate the fine pores, and at the same time, these small pores create a weed barrier. It is essential to use this barrier when using rock mulch to prevent the rock from mixing with the soil below it. As the weed barrier fabric breaks down, it will need to be replaced. Keep soil out of rock beds as weeds will grow on top of weed barrier fabric. If moving plant material in rock beds, ensure overlapped weed barrier is installed where the plants have been removed. We use and recommend professional grade fabric to ensure the best results. Ensure the fabric is installed in a manner that allows the plant to grow. If the fabric is installed tight to the trunk or stems of the plant material, it can cause girdling.

Care of New Lawn


Once the sod is laid, immediately saturate the area thoroughly with water. (Note: One litre of water in the first hour does more for your sod than five litres of water three hours later.) Ensure soil beneath sod is saturated 6” down. Take all necessary precautions to keep areas undisturbed. The soil under watered sod is soft and will show depressions which may require substantial work to repair.

In the first week, water the lawn daily. In the second week, water the lawn approximately 4 times per week. In the third week water the lawn approximately 2 times, with two days between the watering.

During the summer your lawn will require approximately 25 mm of water each week (including rain). Water your lawn evenly and slowly, so that the water penetrates the sod without run-off. Avoid frequent light watering, which may result in shallow rooting.


You may mow your new lawn at the end of two weeks, and again at the end of the third week. Subsequent mowing should be at least once a week. Keep in mind that the lawn must be rooted in, and not saturated with water prior to mowing your new lawn.

Points to remember:

  • Keep the mower blades sharp.
  • Ensure the blades are not set too low as that can result in scalping your lawn.
  • Don’t let your lawn grow so tall that it falls over.
  • Never remove more that 3 cm of grass blade height at any one time.
  • Remove clippings that clump.


Feed your lawn in the spring with a turf-type fertilizer, using a “controlled release nitrogen”. Follow the instructions on the bag of fertilizer. Water your lawn after you have distributed your fertilizer. (Tip: Fertilize your lawn prior to rainy weather.)

If you have any other questions, please call your local garden centre to help you.


Seed will grow naturally. If irrigation is used regularly, it will aid in a much quicker and lush turf. Ensure adequate water, partial water can do more damage than letting nature do its job. In that circumstance, seed may become saturated and die pre-maturely.